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Explore Ladakh

EXPLORE LADAKH

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Ladakh or the ‘Land of High Passes’ is a barren yet beautiful region located in the north Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir. Sharing its east border with Tibet, Ladakh has Lahaul and Spiti to its south and the Kashmir valley to the west. Strategically placed on ancient trade routes, Ladakh lies between the Kunlun Mountains in the north and the Himalayas in the south. The region originally comprised the Baltistan valley, the Indus Valley, Zanskar, Lahaul, Spiti, Aksai Chin and Ngari.
While a majority of Ladakhis are Tibetan Buddhists the main inhabitants of the region are of Indo-Aryan and Tibetan descent. Shia Muslims are the other inhabitants of the area.
Since Ladakh opened its doors to tourists in the 1970s, its snow-capped peaks, the clear blue skies and the vistas of barren mountains broken only by blue meandering rivers has attracted many an intrepid traveller. Tourism is the main source of livelihood for Ladakhis. Indian Army maintains a strong presence in Ladakh due to its strategic location.
The scenic beauty, the rugged terrain, the majestic mountains and the challenge of roughing it out, has made Ladakh a favourite with mountaineering enthusiasts. The remote location and high altitude of Ladakh make is unsuitable for those looking for a quick holiday. You will need time to get acclimatized to Ladakh’s weather conditions. However, its natural and rustic splendour has been preserved due to the lack of modernity.

PLACES TO VISIT

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Takthok Monastery

Takthok monastery is the only monastery in Ladakh which belongs to Nying-ma-pa sect or Red Hat sect of Tibetan Buddhism. Known as the ‘old order’ monastery, it is located in Shakti village about 46 km from Leh in Ladakh district in Jammu and Kashmir, the northernmost state of India. The monastery was founded in 16th century during the reign of King Tshewang Namgyal. All the rooms in the monastery were either carved out of the mountain or existing caves made into rooms. All the walls and the roof are made of rocks. Hence, the locals call the monastery Takthok which means ‘rock roof’. The monastery has a temple, a Dukhang which stands for an assembly hall and caves. These caves are believed to have been used for meditation by Padmasambhava during the 8th century. The dukhang has statues of Maitreya, Padmasambhava and Dorje Takposal. The cave called Duphug Lhakhang is a popular pilgrimage for Tibetan Buddhists. Buddhists set out on the pilgrimage to be blessed by dubchu (holy water). The monastery is also famous as it houses the Kandshur, the sacred book of Buddha’s teachings in 108 volumes, along with other sets of Buddhist volumes written by Lamas to protect people against evil spirits, curses and epidemics. These were written with pure gold and silver letters. Lamas use the text at the time of birth of baby, death of a person or for other rituals. Lamas also predict future of a person by reading the scriptures. The monastery’s new temple is also a major attraction and is known for its murals, paintings and statues of Buddha. It was consecrated by 14th Dalai Lama in 1980. Festivals at the Takthok monastery attract a lot of locals as well as tourists. Dance especially cham dance by the Lamas is very popular. Though there aren’t any fancy hotels and lodges, there are PWD guest houses and homestays to make your stay memorable. The monastery also provides basic accommodation. The guest houses in Shakti village usually have caretakers who’ll be more than happy to prepare a meal or two for you if you plan at staying here. There aren’t too many places you can experiment with eating options, so carrying some packaged food with you is recommended. The best season to visit Takthok monastery is between the months of June and September as rest of the year, the region remains snowbound.

Matho Monastery

Situated right across Thiksey Monastery on the bank of Indus river, the 16th century Matho Monastery is about 20 km south of Leh in Ladakh region of Jammu and Kashmir. Founded by Lama Dugpa Dorje, Matho is the only monastery which follows Sakya order of Tibetan Buddhism. Matho monastery is modeled on the Saskya monastery in Tibet. The monastery is home to about 60 lamas and 30 novitiates. Matho Monastery is popular for the celebration of festival called Matho Nagrang. It is also famous for its oracles. During festivals, the Cham dance and the act of oracles are breathtaking. The acts of oracles under the influence of supernatural powers, leaves everyone in awe and fear as the oracles often run barefoot on the parapets of the monastery roof. The festival of the oracles is held during the Buddhist New Year, which usually falls in the first half of March. The lamas, chosen as oracles every three years, have to undergo months of fasting and meditation to purify themselves. While in trance, the oracles answer questions about the future of Matho and Ladakh as well as personal questions. The monastery comprises dukhang which stands for the assembly hall, temples and chapels. The Dukhang has walls that are full of paintings. Besides the paintings of Buddha and other deities, the monastery also has statues of Maitreya, Sakyamuni, the blessing Buddha and a thousand-armed statue of Avalokitesvara. The chapels have images of Sakya Pandita and lamas. The museum inside the monastery houses beautiful old thangkas, some believed to have been brought from Tibet in 16th century. Accommodation options are limited in Matho as there are no hotels in Matho. Tourists visiting Matho generally stay at Leh and visit the monastery for the day. Leh offers several accommodation options from budget to luxury. There are no restaurants or hotels in Matho. There are few small stalls which sell snacks and soft drinks. It would be advisable to carry food hampers while visiting Matho. The best time to visit Matho is between May and September, when the weather remains warm. Most of the routes remain closed after November due to heavy snowfall.

Alchi Monastery

Renowned as the oldest Buddhist learning centre in Ladakh, Alchi Monastery is located 70 km from Leh in Jammu and Kashmir in north India on the bank of Indus River. A national heritage site, it is distinct from other monasteries in Ladakh as it is situated on flat ground unlike others which are located on hilltops. The foundation of the monastery was laid by Tibetan translator Rinchen Zangpo in the middle of 12th century. It has three main structures known as Dukhang, Sumtsek and the temple of Manjushri. Dukhang, the assembly hall, is the largest and the oldest preserved part of the monastery. Walls of the assembly hall are full of ancient paintings that depict different forms of Buddha and goddesses. Sumtsek, the three-story temple is popular for its four armed big Bodhisattva statue which occupies two floor of the temple. On the ground floor there is a Maitreya Buddha along with figure of white Avalokiteshvara and Manjushri. Temple of Manjushri is also known as Jampe Lhakhang. Along with images of Manjushri, the temple has sculpture and a painting of Rinchen Tsangpo. No documents testifying to Alchi’s history exist. The only thing that tells the history is the ancient monuments and paintings of the monastery. Archaeological Survey of India is helping preserve the monastery. Villagers of Alchi are quite traditional and staunch believers in their culture, so that makes the village a cultural site too. For adventure lovers, rafting is an option in Alchi. As it is located near Zanskar river, Nyemo-Alchi is popular with river rafters. It is a good place for buying Pashmina Shawl, woolen jackets and apricots. There are small budget hotels in Alchi which offer river-side view. One can also stay in tented accommodation. Alchi has several small restaurants which serve Indian and Tibetan meal at reasonable rates.

Zanskar

Zanskar lies to the south-west of Leh, surrounded by the Himalayan and Zanskar ranges, which is the most isolated of all the trans-Himalayan valley. It takes two days, with a nigh halt at Kargil, to reach Zanskar negotiating the rough road beginning from Kargil. Zanskar comprise two main valleys of stod (Doda chu) and lungnak (Tsarab chu)(, which converge below at padum. The valley has an area of about 5,000 square km and an elevation of 13,154 ft. the area remains inaccessible for nearly 7 months in the year. All the high passes gets closed in winters. The only alternate route out of Zanskar river, which has become a popular destiny for winter tourist hikers.it is nearly week long walk on frozen river from Zanskar to reach Leh. This is popular as chadar trek. The geographical isolation of Zanskar has resulted in the preservation of the Buddhist heritage and identity. Islam did not reach beyond parkachik. The settlement of a small Muslim community in padum area in the centre of Zanskar, is rather a recent phenomenon. Many ancient monastic establishments are still actively involved in religious activities. Some remote caves here are believed to have been used by the succession of Buddhist saints to sustain meditation pursuit, of knowledge and enlightenment. The most sacred sani monastery has a stupa of the Kanishka period.

Markha Valley

Considered to be one of the most popular and scenic Ladakh treks, Markha valley is situated in the eastern part of Ladakh district of Jammu and Kashmir. The Markha valley is known for its panoramic views, its Tibetan Buddhist monasteries and remote villages. The valley is a huge favourite among trekkers due to its easy accessibility from Leh. The Markha village is situated in between Rumbak and Nimaling and is home to a long-abandoned, picturesque fort. Beyond Nimaling lies the Kongmaru La, the highest part of the trek. The trek is challenging and is meant for trekkers who have experience when it comes to higher level of difficulty. Markha Valley is named after the Markha River, a tributary of the Zanskar and like most treks in the valleys in Ladakh, the route to Markha begins from Leh. The trail begins from the lower Markha Valley, which later ascends to the alpine grass lands. The Markha valley offers several proofs of Ladakh’s old civilization in the form of ruins of castles and forts. Crossing streams and rivers plus hiking for long hours in the cold desert is an experience of a lifetime. The area once abounded with snow leopards and wolves. Currently the numbers of snow leopards and wolves have dwindled. Kang Yatse situated in Markha Valley on the top of Nimaling Plateau, is a beautiful peak which is its prime attraction. At 4700 m, Nimaling is the highest camp site, presenting breath-taking views of the Kang Yatse. After crossing the Ganda La, which is situated at an elevation of 4870 m, the path follows the Markha River and climbs through barley and mustard fields and a few charming Ladakhi villages. One can enjoy incredible views of the Karakoram, the Himalayas and Tibet from the top of the highest pass- the Kongmaru La at a height of 5200 m. The Markha Valley trek ends with a spectacular walk down a gorge to Hemis Monastery, India’s wealthiest monastery. You can also visit the Hemis National Park which is home to the elegant snow leopard, the blue sheep and the ibex. There aren’t too many places to stay in Markha Valley except for a few homestays. There are no eateries in the region so. remember to carry enough food for the trip. The best time to visit Markha Valley is between the months of July and October.

Shey Palace

The old capital of Ladakh, Shey is situated in the upper Indus valley in Jammu and Kashmir in north India. It lies on the route between Leh and Hemis Monastery, 15 km from Leh. Shey Palace, the erstwhile royal residence of the Ladakh monarchs, is the main attraction of Shey. The palace was built by King Deldan Namgyal in 1655 AD. Namgyal also made Shey his summer capital. It offers views of a vast expanse of the surrounding valleys. Currently, the palace serves as a center of Buddhism and houses the Shey monastery. It has the largest golden Buddha statue and covers almost three floors of the monastery. Painting on the walls, murals and sculptures of Buddha are worth seeing. There are no historical records to prove Shey’s antiquity but it is generally believed that Shey was settled by a Tibetan prince Nyima Gon in the 10th century. Several buildings and sculptures built by Nyima have inscriptions that point to this fact. At a short distance from the palace lies the village of Shey which has around 700 houses. The Druk Padma Karpo Institute at the village has become a tourist attraction after the success of the Bollywood movie 3 Idiots. The school was shown as the school run by Aamir Khan’s character Rancho in the movie. After the resounding success of 3 Idiots, the school is known as Rancho’s school.

Thiksey Monastery

Thiksey Monastery is the largest monastery in central Ladakh district in Jammu and Kashmir. It is situated 18 km from Leh in the Indus valley. The Tibetan Buddhist monastery of Gelugpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism is located at the top of hill. The monastery is famous for its architecture and its location. The 12 storey monastery has 10 temples, an assembly hall, and is home to 120 monks and nunnery. The monastery buildings are structured in hierarchal order. The monastery is referred as ‘Mini Potala’ of India as it resembles Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet. There is one big statue of Maitreya (future Buddha) which covers almost two floor of the monastery that is 40 feet in height. Tara temple of Goddess Tara is another major attraction for the visitors. Apart from visiting monastery one can also find some rare and precious stupas, statues, thangkas, wall paintings and swords in the monastery. Due to its proximity to Leh the morning prayer at the monastery attracts huge crowds. The monastery offers clear view of the Indus Valley and some monastery like Shey, Stok and Matho can also be seen from here. Festivals celebration is another major attraction for the tourists, locals and Buddhists in Thiksey Monastery. There is a very interesting story behind how Thiksey monastery got its name and how the place where it stands today was finalised. Jangsem Sherab Zangpo and his disciple Palden Sherab were offering prayer services with a ritual cake about three kilometre from where the Thiksey monastery is. A crow flew away with the cake. When they searched, they found the ritual cake in perfect order at the top of the hillock. They believed it be an auspicious sign to build a monastery at this place. The monastery got the name Thiksey (meaning in perfect order) because the cake was placed in perfect order by the crow. Accommodation is available in the monastery with excellent services at nominal rate. There are luxurious hotels at the base of the hill with modern facilities. The monastery serves vegetarian food. Hotels at the base provide Indian and Tibetan food. The best time to visit Thiksey monastery is between May and September, as routes are closed after November due to heavy snowfall.

Stok

Located 14 km southwest of Leh in the Ladakh district of Jammu and Kashmir, Stok was the seat of erstwhile rulers of Ladakh. Also renowned for the 14th century Buddhist monastery, Stok attracts lots of trekkers too as it serves as the gateway to several high altitude trekking trails in Himalayas. Situated in a beautiful locale surrounded by Stok Kangri range, Markha and Indus valleys, Stok is a visual treat for visitors. Stok was the erstwhile seat of the Ladakhi royal family. The Stok palace was built about two hundred years ago by king Tsepal Tondup Namgyal after Sikh general Zorawar Singh’s invasion of Leh. Descendants of the royal family still reside in the palace. The museum within the palace exhibits artifacts which enlighten visitors about the life of the Ladakh royals, their history, currency and weapons. The 14th century Stok monastery , situated above the palace, was founded by Lama Lhawang Lotus and the monasteries follow the Gelugpa (Yellow Hat) sect of Buddhism. The monastery has an assembly hall, a courtyard, a verandah, temples, chortens and a library. Stok monastery has many reasons to attract visitors including non-Buddhists. The ancient paintings on the wall that include images of Vajrapani, Avalokitesvara, Skayamuni (historical Buddha), Tara (the Saviouress), Nangyalma and Amchi (The Medicine Buddha) are intriguing. The library in the monastery has 108 volumes of the Buddha’s teachings. The latest temple constructed in the monastery is dedicated to Avalokitesvara which is another major attraction for visitors. The image of the Avalokitesvara has 1,000 hands and 11 heads. The small chapel within the monastery is the oldest in the whole Ladakh region. Stok Guru Tsechu festival is a great crowd puller. Everyone is allowed to be part of the celebration. Dance, music and festive foods make the celebration a memorable event.

Hemis

Hemis is a town located 40 km south east of Leh in Ladakh region of Jammu and Kashmir. It is known for the Hemis monastery that was established in 1672 AD by king Senge Nampar Gyalva. Losar, the Tibetan new year is celebrated with grandeur at Hemis for two weeks in December and January. The Hemis festival is looked forward to by several travelers across the country. Apart from that, you must visit the Hemis National Park which is home to the endangered snow leopard.

Sumda Chun

Popular for the temple built by Lotsawa Rinchen Zangpo, the village of Sumda Chun is located at an elevation of over 12,000 ft. The temple is a part of the Sumda Chun Monastery which is one of the oldest Buddhist monasteries in the Ladakh region of North Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir. Located about 65 km south-west of Leh, the village is in a remote part of the Himalayas. The nearest motorable road to the village ends at Sumdo. The village of Sumda Chun can be reached only by hiking for nearly five hours by a steep river valley trail. The remoteness of the village has helped in the preservation of the region. The trek from Sumdo to Sumda Chun goes through steep hilly terrain and gorges. Another way to reach Sumda Chun is trekking from Alchi village going through Stakspila but the gradient of the slope going down is very steep making it a very time consuming trip. The temple at Sumda Chun is said to be one of three temples that Lotsawa Rinchen Zangpo founded in one night. The other temples are at Alchi and Mangyu. Sumda Chun is the starting point of the important Sumda-Mangyu-Alchi Buddhist pilgrimage which pilgrims try to finish in one day. The Sumda Chung Monastery is listed as one of the 100 most endangered sites in the World Monument Funds 2006 Watch List. The abbot of the Hemis Monastery appoints monks who take care of the daily rituals and all major events in the temple. The village has a total population of 16 people who actively contribute to the activities and rituals of the temple. The Sumda Chun Monastery once covered the entire hill but today, only the assembly hall, main shrine, two Bodhisattva chapels, a prayer wall and a few stupas remain. Conservation programmes have been started to preserve the architecture, sculptures, paintings and artwork of Sumda Chun Monastery and the temple in Sumda Chun. There are ornate sculptures and paintings in the main hall of the monastery. Established in the 12th century, the complex of the monastery and the temple were originally built for arid climate but the unexpected amount of rainfall over the years has caused severe damage to the structures and the art forms. The best time to visit Sumda Chun Monastery is from May and ends in September. The weather during these months is warm unlike the hostile cold weather of the winter months. Trekking and hiking can be done in the nearby regions during these months but all trekking trails are closed or blocked due to heavy snowfall in November. The monastery provides basic accommodation. Leh offers more options that can suit almost every need from budget and mid-range accommodation. Carrying food and water when travelling to Sumda Chun village is a good option.

Khardung la

Located at an elevation of 18,379 ft, Khardung La is the world’s highest motorable road and serves as gateway to Shyok and Nubra valleys in the Ladakh region of India’s northernmost state, Jammu and Kashmir. It is a high mountain pass is in the Karakoram Range to the north of Leh. Khardung La (in Tibetan, La means pass) is situated at about 40 km from Leh. The pass offers amazing views of the valley and the roads winding up the mountain. The clear air, scenic vistas and the feeling of being on top of the world have made Khardung La a popular tourist attraction. As a tourists’ favourite, Khardung La finds its way to the top of several travelers’ list of things to do in Leh-Ladakh. So much so that during the peak traveling season for Ladakh, Khardung La faces traffic that can soon turn into a nightmare. In order to make traveling through the pass smoother for tourists, vehicles from Leh towards Khardung La are allowed only from 9 am to 1 pm and those form Khardung La to Leh are allowed from 1 pm to 5 pm. It’s always advisable to check with local agencies or taxi drivers about the timings. The road from Leh to Khardung La is asphalted for about 24 km till the South Pullu check post but from there the road is made up of gravel and dirt track till the North Pullu check point. Tourists require the Inner Line Permit (ILP) to cross the pass which can be obtained from the District Commissioner’s office in Leh. Make sure to keep as many as six photocopies of your permit as every check point needs a copy of your permit before letting your through. The weather is highly unstable and can change surprisingly fast leaving you stranded for hours or even days so you need to come prepared for the worst when planning to visit Khardung La. There are no accommodation options at Khardung La unless you travel with your own tents that you can pitch along the road side. Since Leh is the closest town with plenty of accommodation and eatery options, your best bet is to travel back to Leh or even stay at Nubra for one night. Do carry some food packets and munchies for the journey and keep hydrating yourselves. The best time to visit Khardung La is between May and October. During these months the pass remains open unless there is a sudden change in weather conditions.

Dha – Hanu

Renowned as ‘the Land of Aryans’, Dha and Hanu villages are settlements of Drokpa or Brokpa community in Ladakh. The village is located about 163 km northwest of Leh at the confluence of rivers Shyok and Indus in Kargil region in Jammu and Kashmir. According to popular belief, the Brokpas were part of the army of Alexander the Great and came to the region over two thousand years ago. The Brokpas reside in five villages; however, tourists are allowed only in two villages – Dha and Hanu. Besides tourists, the villages also attract anthropologists. The custom of marrying within the community has ensured the Brokpas have retained their distinctive features. Brokpa have fair complexion and blue coloured eyes. The custom of marrying within the community has, however, limited the population of Brokpas. The community hardly numbers over 2000. Drokpa or Brokpa community is racially and culturally distinct from the common Ladakhis. The community has a unique sense of dressing. The community especially women makes it a practice to wear flowers on their hats. The practice has earned them the sobriquet of flower women of Ladakh. The community also practices polyandry. Unlike rest of Ladakh which is predominantly Buddhist, Brokpas are animist and follow the Bon religion. They consider Ibex as sacred animal. The Brokpa people have preserved their traditions and rituals over the ages. The villages of the Brokpas are also famous for their scenic splendour. Unlike the spartan landscape of Ladakh, the Brokpa villages have more green cover. Temperature in the villages is also higher than in other parts of Ladakh which has also led to the thriving vegetation. Temperature during summer reaches up to 40 degree Celsius. Isolated from the modern world, the community mainly thrives on horticulture. Apricot and apples are the main crops. Apricots, especially from Dha, are renowned for their sweetness. The apricot stones are used for producing oil. Dah and Hanu don’t have hotels or guest houses. But we do offer tented accommodation. There are no restaurants in the village. It is advisable to carry your own food. You can buy snacks and other eatables from the small shops in the village. But if you want to stay longer than one day you would need to seek the help of locals. During summer, it is quite hot in the villages as temperature rises to 40 degree Celsius. The best time to visit is between June and October.

Hanle Monastery

One of the largest and most popular monasteries of Ladakh, the 17th century Hanle Monastery belongs to the Red Hat (Tibetan Drukpa Kagyu) sect of Tibetan Buddhism. Located in Hanle Valley of Leh district in Ladakh, the monastery straddles on the ancient trade route between Ladakh and Tibet. Also known as Hanle or Analy Gompa, the monastery is home to 10 monks. Over 33 more monks visit the monastery regularly for prayers. The monastery is less than 20 km away from the Line of Actual Control between India and Tibet. Built with the help and support of Ladakhi King Sengge Namgyal and Stag-tsang-ras-pa (a famous Tibet priest), Hanle was the first monastery to be associated with the Drukpa School that Stag-tsang-ras-pa belonged to. Built in Tibetan architectural style, Hanle Monastery also shows influence of Indian and Chinese styles of architecture. With continual support from the Namgyal family, the monastery gained a lot of importance in Ladakh and nearby regions. Hanle Monastery gave serious competition to the Yellow Hat sect, also known as Gelug. Hanle, Hemis, Stakna and Chemrey Monasteries belong to the Red Hat sect. The Hanle Monastery is home to the Indian Astronomical Observatory, one of the world’s highest sites for optical, gamma-ray and infrared telescopes. At an elevation of 14,674 ft, the Indian Astronomical Observatory at Hanle is the second highest optical telescope in the world. Due to close proximity of the monastery to the Tibetan border, the region is highly sensitive. For this reason, prior permission has to be acquired from the Indian Government office in Leh to visit the monastery. There are budget accommodations available on the Tsaka La Road, south of Rhongo. Camp site accommodation is available on the shores of the Pangong Tso. It is advisable to carry own food and water. There are a few eateries near the monastery but they are quite expensive and food served and may not suit your expectations. A few locals provide home cooked food which is generally Ladakhi cuisine. The best time to visit Hanle Monastery is between June and September.

Changla

At an elevation of 17,586 ft, Chang La is the third highest motorable road in the world. The Himalayan mountain pass is located on the road from Leh to Pangong Tso in Ladakh in the state of Jammu and Kashmir. The Pass gets its name from the temple dedicated to hermit Changla Baba. La in Tibetan language means a mountain pass. Chang La lies on National Highway 21 also known as the Leh-Manali Highway. Driving up to the Chang La Pass will take you through sheer rock faces on one side and a deep cliff on the other side. The air thins as you climb higher and you might experience headaches or nausea so carry medicine to deal with altitude sickness medicine to avoid health problems. As you reach the top of the Chang La pass, it opens a wide vista of snow-capped mountains. As you reach the top of the mountain road you are greeted by a sign of the Indian Army announcing the feat you have just achieved by driving up to Chang La top. The Chang La opens up to the Changthang Plateau. Chang La is on the way to Pangong Lake. An inner line permit is required for visiting Chang La as it is a restricted area. The permit is easily available from the Divisonal Commissioner’s office in Leh. But the permits are issued only for three weeks. You can get the thrill of your life by trekking to Changla Pass. There are a few well known routes but the adrenaline starts pumping on the unexplored routes which were once popular routes connecting India to Tibet. There aren’t any options to eat at the Changla Pass except for teashops where you can also get some biscuits to get refreshed and continue your journey. The best time to visit Changla Pass is between the months of May and October as the route only opens during these months.

Tsomoriri Lake

Situated in Changthang plateau in south-east Ladakh, Tso Moriri or Lake Moriri is known for its scenic splendour. The high altitude lake is set between Ladakh in the north, Tibet in the east and Zanskar in the west. Tsomoriri along with Pangong Tso are two of the very popular high altitude lakes in Ladakh. At an elevation of 15,075 ft, it is the highest brackish water lake in India. Officially the lake is known as Tso Moriri Wetland Conservation Reserve and is accessible only during the summers as the region remains snowbound through rest of the year. The Changthang plateau is home to snowy peaks that feed the lake. One stream comes from the north and another from the south-west and creates extensive marshes where they enter the lake. The lake had an outlet towards the south but it has contracted and now the lake is landlocked which has resulted in the lake to turn brackish. Salt used to be extracted from the lake by locals till 1959. The water of the lake is alkaline and is oligotrophic in nature, meaning it is home to organisms that are rich in nutrients. As per the Himalayan Lakes Classification, the Tso Moriri belongs to the category of remnant lakes which were originally structural but represent the remnants of vast lakes. The Changthang plateau, at 14,800 ft, is an extension of the Western Tibet plateau and it supports a low but diverse population of several animals. The lake is surrounded by the Rupshu valley which has hills rising to a height of 20,000 ft. The main inhabitants of the area are Changpas, nomadic migratory shepherds who raise flocks of yak, sheep, goats and Tibetan horses. They engage in trade with caravans in the Ladakh region. They use the valley land for grazing their animals and for cultivation. If you want to stay near the shores of the lake then accommodation is available in Korzok village in tented camps which spring up every year during tourist season. These camps are moderately priced and offer good facilities. Similar tented camps are available in Nubra Valley too. You can also stay at as a paying guest with locals. There is a guest house and a budget hotel too in Nubra Valley. You can also stay at the camps set up near the Pangong Lake which are are slightly costlier but better equipped than the ones located near Lake Moriri. It will be best to carry food and water along with you. The camps do provide food but having something extra to munch on, along the way is recommended. It is better to carry your own food in case the food served is not up to your standards. The locals serve home-made food which is of good quality. The best time to visit Tsomoriri is from June to September. By the end of September, the tourist season comes to an end.

Spituk Monastery

The Spituk Monastery was built in the 11th century. The monastery, about eight km from Leh in Jammu and Kashmir, was constructed to help develop an exemplary religious community in Ladakh. Like most monasteries in Ladakh, Spituk is also located on a hill. River Indus flows behind the monastery with snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas in the background. The monastery belongs to Gelugpa sect or Yellow Hat order of Tibetan Buddhism The monastery was founded by Od-De, elder brother of Lha Lama Changchub Od. Spituk has three branches – Stok, Sankar and Saboo monastery. The monastery started off as pat of Kadampa order (Red Hat sect) but it later came into the fold of Gelugpa order (Yellow Hat sect). The monastery currently is home to about 100 monks. It has many ancient shrines, idols, frescoes and religious scriptures. There is a temple higher up the hill devoted to Vajrabhairava Deity. One can see the face of the idol only during Gustor festival. The monastery has images and statues of Lord Buddha. Besides that, there is sacred idol of Amitayus that is a finger high in size which was presented by Tsongkhapa to Takspa Bum-Lde. The Dukhang or the assembly hall has ancient collection of thangkas, masks and antique arms. There is a big throne in the assembly hall for the Dalai Lama. There is old chapel behind the throne that has images of Tsong-kha-pa, his two chief disciples and the Buddha. The monastery also has a statue of the female Bodhisattva Tara (also called Dolma). The monastery has a room dedicated to images of Tara and it is called Dolma Lhakhang or the Temple of Tara. The monastery celebrates Gustor festival every year. Prayers, music, dance, traditional art and cultural exhibition by locals are the highlight of the festival. Locals make it a point to attend the festival to receive the blessings of Lord Buddha and the monks before entering the New Year. Cham dance or mask dance are the high point of the festival. The Cham dance is performed to reinforce the message that good always wins over evil. The color of the dresses, mask and the powerful performance by the Lamas are worth watching. The monastery is located near Leh where the options for accommodation and food are better. The best season to visit the monastery is between June and September as rest of the months, roads are snowbound.

Tso Kar Lake

The smallest of the three high altitude alpine lakes in the Ladakh region of Jammu and Kashmir, the Tso Kar Lake is situated in the Rupshu Valley at an elevation of over 14,700 ft. Tso in Tibetan refers to lake. It is also known as the White Lake because of the amount of salts that get deposited on the banks of the lake. It is spread across 10 sq km and lies 250 km south-east of Leh, 50 km from Tso Moriri which is the highest brackish water lake in India. A trip to the three lakes, Tso Kar, Tso Moriri and Pangong is popular activity among travelers. The lake is also popular among bird watchers as the marshlands surrounding the lake is home to several rare species of birds. Common birds seen here are Brahmni ducks, bar headed geese and great crested grebe. The main attraction, however, is the black necked crane. The black necked cranes, known for their fidelity, come to Tso Kar to lay eggs. The sight of the bird, with a wingspan of almost eight ft, taking off is an amazing sight to witness against the backdrop of green plains and the snow covered mountains. Tso Kar also sustains other wildlife. The most common mammals here are the Kiangs (the largest wild ass). The mammal cannot be tamed and lives in large groups. The Tibetan gazelle, Tibetan wolf and steppe marmot are some other animals you can spot in the area. Though not as famous as the other two lakes, the lake is peaceful and quiet. Nomads that inhabit the nearby regions make a living from collecting the salt from the banks of the lake and selling it to surrounding regions. Tso Kar has the option of night camping although the number of tents isn’t big. It would be better to book accommodation in Leh due to the rough weather. The campsite is on the west end of the lake near the Manali-Leh road about three km from the lake. Accommodation options are easily available at Leh. There are a number of budget and mid-range hotels to suit your preference. Though options for food are available at the campsite, yet limited. The food there is very basic and there are no other shops or stalls so carry some snacks along.

Likir Gompa

The Likir Monastery or gompa is one of the oldest and well maintained monasteries in Ladakh district in India’s northernmost state, Jammu and Kashmir. The monastery is located in Likir village is believed to have been in existence since 11th century. The original name of Likir monastery is Klu-kkhyil gompa. Besides being the oldest, the monastery is also known for the 75 feet statue of Buddha. About 62 m from Leh, Likir village located in Indus Valley is believed to be among the oldest villages of India. Likir means the Naga encircled. The monastery got its name as it is believed two serpent spirits –Nanda and Taksako – guard it. The gompa belongs to Gelugpa sect of Buddhism which is also referred as Yellow Hat sect. It was founded by Tsongkhapa in 15th century. A monastery founded in 11th century by king Lha-chen-rgyal-po used to exist at the place. The monastery was destroyed due to fire. It was rebuilt in 18th century. The monastery was built like a fort so that it offered a sanctuary to local inhabitants during the war. Fields are located at the base, above which are located the monks’ residences. The temples and the assembly hall are located above the monks’ residence. About 120 monks reside in the monastery. Besides being one of the oldest monasteries of Ladakh, Likir also has the distinction of being one of the wealthiest monasteries in Ladakh as well. Precious statues made in gold, silver and copper, besides numerous rare thangkas, murals and art works form the wealth of the monastery. Likir also controls Alchi monastery. The main attractions of the monastery are its architecture, murals, thangkas, 75 feet statue of Buddha and stupas. There are two assembly halls known as Dukhangs. Walls of the Dukhangs are full of paintings. The paintings of Bodhisattva (Lord of All He Surveys), Amitabha (Buddha of the West), Sakyamuni (present Buddha), Maitreya (future Buddha) and Marme Zat (past Buddha) are impressive. Gonkhang is dedicated to guardian deities. A trip to Likir is incomplete without attending the annual festival. Dance, music, sports and food are high point of the festival. Cham dance is the major attraction and is performed by Lamas wearing colourful masks. The village is famous for pashmina shawl, woolen clothes and apricots. There are guest houses and hotels for tourists to stay, however, not all of the are located close to the monastery. In fact, most accommodation options are approximately two to three km from the monastery. Most of the caretakers and owners of the homestays and guest houses will offer meals that suitable prices. Also, these guest houses offer food only to their guests. The best time to visit Likir monastery is between June and September, as routes remain closed after November due to heavy snowfall.

Chemrey Monastery

Dedicated to the Drugpa order of Tibetan Buddhism, Chemrey Monastery is situated 40 km from Leh in Ladakh region in Jammu and Kashmir. An important centre of Buddhist learning, the monastery attracts large number of tourists because of its picturesque location. The monastery was founded in 1664 AD by Lama Tagsang Raschen who also founded Hemis monastery. The monastery is also dedicated to King Sengge Namgyal who was instrumental in the spread of Tibetan Buddhism in Ladakh. About 20 monks reside in the monastery. The monastery complex comprises number of shrines, Dukhang (assembly hall) and the Lhakhang (Lama temple). There are two Dukhangs constructed during different times. The old Dukhang has paintings of the founder of the monastery and the new Dukhang has images of Padmasambhava. All the walls have paintings about Buddhism drawn during 17th century. The major attraction of the monastery is the one-storey high idol of Padmasambhava, who was instrumental in the spread of Buddhism in Tibet and translated many Indian scriptures written in Pali and Sanskrit into Tibetan. There are also rare collections of Buddhist scriptures, murals of Sakyamuni (the Historical Buddha), Kalchakra, Akshobhya (Buddha of East) and thousand Buddha. Another popular attractions is the 29 volume scripture written in silver and gold letters. The Chemrey Angchok festival of the monastery has been attracting large number of tourists. There are no hotels, lodges or homestays at or around the monastery. Budget hotels are available around 18 km from the monastery towards Leh. One can also stay at Leh where there are plenty of options available. You would find small shops selling tea and snacks outside the monastery. The stalls run by locals, however, do not offer full meals. The best season to visit Chemrey monastery is between June and October. During rest of the month roads remain closed because of snow.

Phyang Monastery

Phyang monastery is located 17 km west from Leh in Ladakh region in Jammu and Kashmir in north India. Phyang and Lamayuru are the only monasteries in Ladakh that belong to Dri-gung-pa sect of Tibetan Buddhism. The name Phyang was derived from Gang Ngonpo that means the blue mountain, which is situated behind the monastery. Legend has it that the foundation of the monastery was laid by Denma Kunga Drakpa. It is said that Drakpa stayed at the area in a tented camp to contemplate the beauty of the place. While meditating he saw the protectresss Achi on her blue horse. He took the dream as auspicious sign and decided to construct the monastery at the top of the hill. It is also said that there were numerous monastic properties at the site which were offered to Denma Kunga Drakpa by the Dharmaraja Jamyang Namgyal. It was also the venue of Tashi Chozong monastery established in 1515. But to trace the sequence of Phyang monastery’s establishment is difficult as some events are not mentioned clearly. The monastery is known for its ancient wall paintings, collections of old thangkas and murals of Mahakala. The monastery is home to 100 monks. The monastery also houses a school to impart training in Buddhism along with modern education. There is an old temple of Mahakala (the Gomkhang) which was built at the time of the foundation of monastery. There is a museum in the monastery that has 900-year-old collections of idols, scriptures, Chinese, Tibetan and Mongolian firearms and weapons. The Phyang monastery festival attracts large number of tourists. Dance, music and mask dance are high point of the event. The Cham dance by the lamas is quite spectacular to watch. There are no hotels, resorts or homestays near Phyang monastery. Leh is a good option to stay. Since there aren’t too many hotels around the corner, most restuarants and eateries are also located near Leh. It is advisable to carry your own food while traveling to the Phyang Monastery. The best time to visit Phyang monastery is between May and September, when the weather remains warm. Most of the entry points to Phyang remain closed after November due to heavy snowfall.

Lamayuru Monastery

Renowned as Tharpa Ling which means the ‘place of freedom’; Lamayuru monastery is the oldest and one of the largest monasteries in Ladakh region in Jammu and Kashmir. It is located approximately 127 km from Leh on a steep mountain between Bodhkharbu and Kha-la-che. The monastery belongs to Red-Hat Sect of Buddhism. At its peak, the monastery housed 400 monks but nowadays there are only 50 inmates. About 150 monks reside in Lamayuru village. The monastery is famous for its rich wall paintings, collection of thangkas, murals, scriptures and statues of different forms of Buddha and other deities. There are several legends about the monastery. According to one of the legends, it was founded by Mahasiddhacharya Naropa in 11th century who came to the place for meditation. However, the foundation of the monastery was predicted in the Bodhisattva Madhyantaka. It was predicted that the lake would be dried and a monastery would be constructed at its place. When the lake dried, Naropa found a dead lion there and chose to construct first temple of Singhe Ghang (Lion Mound). He constructed five buildings but only one exists. According to another historical account, the king of Ladakh built the Lamayuru buildings during tenth century. Later the king donated the buildings to Rinchen Zangbo. According to a third account, the King of Ladakh during 16th century, Jamyang Namgyal contracted leprosy which was cured by a Lama. In gratitude, the king gave him the monastery buildings and some other privileges like exemption from taxes. Moreover, he declared the area surrounding the monastery as sanctuary where no one would be arrested. This is the reason that the Lamayuru is still said to be ‘Tharpa Ling’ which means the ‘place of freedom’. The monastery has a Dukhang, the assembly hall, Gonkhang, the temple and residential buildings for monks. Walls of the Dukhang are painted with colourful images of Buddhist deities. The Gonkhang is dedicated to guardians of Buddhism. In front of the temple there are three chortens. In the small temple there are some images of Avalokitesvara (with 1000 arms and 11 heads), Padmasambhava and statues of eight Bodhisattvas. Besides the temple there is a cave which is known as Naropa’s cave. It is said that Naropa used to meditate in the cave. The annual festival known as Yuru Kabgyat is the major attraction of the monastery. Mask dance by the lamas are the highlight of the festival. Another important ritual followed during the festival is the burning of effigies. It stands for destruction of the ego in every individual. Besides its monastery, Lamayuru also attracts tourists for its landscape quite similar to the lunar terrain. Though remote, the landscape is a favourite with photographers and trekkers. In fact, the adventure fantasy film, The Fall was shot at moonscape at Lamayuru. The movie directed by Tarsem Singh, starred Lee Pace, Catinca Untaru, and Justine Waddell. Some of the scenes of the feature length drama movie Wolf were shot in Lamayuru monastery. The film was released in July, 2012. Basic accommodation is available in the monastery. Mid-range hotels are also available near the Lamayuru monastery. Options to eat are limited at Lamayuru village, but just about enough. Try some of the Tibetan authentic food if you like to explore new cuisines. There are small outlets in the village which provide Indian and Tibetan food. The best time to visit Lamayuru is between May and September, when the weather is pleasant. Most of the trekking routes and roads remain closed after November due to heavy snowfall.

Gurudwara Pather Sahib

Situated 25 miles from Leh in Ladakh region in Jammu and Kashmir, Gurudwara Pathar Sahib stands at the place where Guru Nanak, the founder of Sikh religion and the first guru, is believed to have vanquished a demon. Though the region is predominantly Buddhist, Gurudwara Pathar Sahib is also worshipped and venerated by Buddhists. Tibetan Buddhists venerate Guru Nanak as Guru Gompka Maharaj and as Nanak Lama. Legend has it that during his sojourn in Ladakh, Guru Nanak was attacked by a demon. The demon threw a large boulder on the guru as he sat at the base of a hill meditating. However, the rock became soft like molten wax and failed to cause any harm to the Sikh Guru. The demon was in for a surprise when he found Guru Nanak unhurt. Bristling with fury, the demon tried to crush Guru Nanak by kicking the boulder with all his might. To his surprise, the demon’s foot caused a deep impression in the boulder which had turned soft. Realizing that the man in front of him was no mortal soul, the demon stopped harassing him along with the people of the town. The boulder and the legend associated with it was forgotten for a long time. However, in the late 1970s, the boulder was discovered again during the construction of Leh-Nimu road. Construction work was brought to a halt by a huge boulder and despite all efforts it couldn’t be removed. Though people associated with the construction had visions asking them not to disturb the rock, army official in-charge of the project decided to blow. However, when army officials were about to blow up the boulder, lamas and locals arrived and stopped the work. The lamas told the army officials about the rock and Nanak Lama. Later, the army officials, locals and lamas helped construct the Gurudwara. The Guru Pathar Sahib is maintained by the Indian Army. It is a tradition for vehicles to stop and pay respects at the temple before continuing with the journey. Though there are no hotels, resorts or homestays around the gurudwara, the best option for travelers is finding accommodation in Leh. There are also close to no options to eat around Gurudwara Pathar Sahib. Leh has a fair number of hotels serving mostly north Indian and Tibetan delicacies. The best time of the year to visit Gurdwara Pathar Sahib is between the months of June and October.

PLACES NEAR LADAKH

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Kargil

Nestled in the Himalayas on the Srinagar-Leh highway, Kargil is a major transit hub, second largest urban centre in Ladakh and base for adventure activities like mountaineering, high altitude trekking, camping, river rafting etc. in the Himalayas. Located just 11 km from the Line of Actual Control which divides India and Pakistan, Kargil holds strategic importance for India. Kargil has been the subject of movies and much written about as it was the scene of Pakistan’s infiltration and subsequent war in 1999. Situated at a height of 2676 meters in the Suru Valley, Kargil has been a prominent trading post and an important stopover on caravan routes. Kargil is about 205 km from the state capital Srinagar. Kashmir Valley lies to its south and to the west lies Baltistan in Pakistan occupied Kashmir. If interested in adventurous activities like mountaineering, high altitude trekking, camping, river rafting, etc. then head to Kargil. Those looking for adventure can trek through Sumdo Chinmu village to Alchi and see the monastery. The route also passes through Stakspi La. Another popular trekking route is through Padum to Lamayuru. Trekking to Zoji La is another route popular with trekkers. Places near Kargil are a sightseer’s paradise. Scenic valleys, remnants of martial past and quaint old Gompas or monasteries, which hark back to the regions connection with Tibet; all can be found around Kargil. Suru valley, drained by Suru river a tributary of the Indus, offers breathtaking views of the mountain range. During winter, the river bed turns into a venue for ice hockey. Kargil is a very conservative Muslim town so wearing revealing and tight clothes is best avoided.

Nubra Valley

Known for its orchards, scenic vistas, Bactrian camels and monasteries; Nubra Valley is the northernmost part of Jammu and Kashmir. Situated about 150 km from Leh, Nubra Valley is known as the Orchard of Ladakh and was originally called Ldumra which meant the valley of flowers. Surrounded by snowcapped Himalayan ranges, Nubra valley lies sandwiched between Tibet and Kashmir. The view of the valley is picturesque and breathtaking. During winter, the whole valley looks like landscape of the moon (reason for calling Moonland) and in summer full of greenery. To reach Nubra valley, you will have to cross the awe-inspiring Khardung La, the highest motorable pass in the world. Winding channels of the Shyok and Nubra Rivers crisscross the wide and flat Nubra valley. From a distance, the valley seems parched and dry. However, the valley mainly consists of prime farm land. No wonder then that the valley has earned the sobriquet Orchard of Ladakh. It is not just scenic natural beauty of Nubra which attracts tourists. The valley is predominantly Buddhist and boasts of several centres of Buddhist learning. Ensa, Samstemling, Diskit and Hunder monastery are famous Buddhist monasteries. The cold desert between Diskit and Hundur are another attraction for tourists. Tourists throng the cold desert to watch the sand dunes and for joyrides on the Bactrian camels. Native to the steppes of central Asia, the Bactrian camel has two humps, in contrast to the single-humped camels found in Rajasthan and other parts of India. The Bactrian camels, found only in Hunder, were the main mode of transport when Ladakh was an important stopover on the ancient trade routes with Central Asia. Bactrian camels are a pointer to the regions importance since ancient times. A major stopover on the ancient Silk Route, Nubra is still important as it is a major trade centre for woolen textiles made of Pashmina wool and horticultural crops. Locals produce fruits like apples, walnuts, apricots, almonds and staple crops like wheat, barley, etc.

Karsha Monastery

Karsha monastery is the largest monastery of Zanskar in the Ladakh region of Jammu and Kashmir. It is located in the Padum Valley above the Stod River in Zanskar and is also known as Karsha Gompa. The 14th Dalai Lama’s younger brother looks after the monastery. Karsha monastery was founded by the famous translator, Phagspa Sherab in the 11th century. It was constructed on the steep mountain above Karsha village. The monastery is a complex comprising eight temples, chapels, chortens, residential rooms for 150 monks and assembly halls. These assembly halls are in the central part of the monastery and are surrounded with three chapels that have a number of statues and beautiful art works. Wall paintings in the monastery by Lama Dzadpa Dorie are a major attraction for the visitors. There is a huge collection of Thangkas (paintings on cotton and silk). The temples which are over 300 years old are larger than other buildings of the monastery and are partially damaged. Chortens or grave of mummified Lamas depict the various stages of spiritual as well as physical attainments. It is believed that in the dome of Chortens, spiritual elements are infused in the mummified body and it is known to be a perfect human body. There are temples of Khagsar close to the village and a convent known as Dorjezong is located at the top of the valley. Karsha gives the opportunity to see the beautiful landscape of Zanskar that includes the glaciers and the river. It is famous for its festival Gustor. The murals, idols and wall paintings in the monastery depict that the monastery was constructed more than thousand years ago in the Rinchen Zangpo (958-1055) era. Zanskar is the place to be at if you are interested in shopping. You can buy Ladakhi and Tibetan handicraft objects, jewelry and Thangka paintings and of course good quality woolen-wear. The monastery is open for visitors round the year, but the best time to visit is between July and September. Winters here are very harsh and snow covers all the roads routes. The pass is cleared of snow till July and remains open till mid-October.

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